The weather reports indicated a bit of rain all over island for the first couple days and then skies clearing for the rest of the week. Since we had been told so many good things about the East Coast, we decided to save it for the end with the good weather. Thus we headed off to the West Coast with Lake St. Clair for a destination in mind.
Map of Hobart in the bottom right to Lake St Clair in the top left
We stopped at a small town, not worth noting along the way for lunch, before going sight-seeing at a hydroelectric dam that cut through the landscape in a very shocking fashion. The roads, although a highway, were very narrow and windy as they followed the steep terrain. Eventually, about 4 hours after starting out, we arrived at the campgound and information centre. We weren't too surprised to see it raining and drizzling with few breaks between clouds.
To enter National Parks, you need to have a park pass. You can purchase one for the day, otherwise the next option is for 2 months, which is what we bought. Lake St Clair is located at the end of the Overland Track which starts in Cradle Mountain and runs through the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Hence we saw many backpackers just arriving after spending a few days trekking down this famous route. Another thing to note is that no campfires are allowed in National Parks which is a safety precaution partially due to the chance that peat may be present.
A bit of info on Lake St Clair
The lake!
We set up our tents while there was still light and then head back to the info centre which had a fireplace and undercover dining spot nearby. After a using the rest of the daylight to do a couple very short walks we used the dining spot to make our hamburgers along with a greasy sooty mess thanks to the camp stoves the bushwalking club had lent us. Still raining, but now dark and much colder, we head off early to bed.
It rained all night and our tents were a soggy mess to put away the next morning, but thankfully the camp had enclosed washrooms with warm water. Still quite tired due to the cold night, we had breakfast back at the info centre before it even opened as we had woken early as the day ahead was long.
Then we did our first hike to Shadow Lake, a small lake near Lake St. Clair. At the National Parks, they request you fill out a book with your information prior to taking a hike, just in case you don't return, they'll have an idea of where you went and how long you've been missing. Recently a Japanese tourist went off one of the walking tracks at Lake St. Clair and got lost. As no cell service is available up where she was, she was lucky they found her by searching the areas she had planned to hike along. Even then, it's suggested you travel in a group of at least 4 people.
Lake St Clair hiking trails
Shadow Lake
Our hike was quite a soggy mess, with the path now saturated with water, many puddles and muddy streams were along the trail. When we finally arrived at the lake, we were greeted with more rain and a cold breeze, so we turned around and head back shortly after. All of us were wet and just a little grumpy! So we drove of with our wet clothes arranged all over the inside of the car to dry off. The plan was to head to Cradle Mountain, but as no roads run directly there (ie through the park) you are forced to drive quite a bit out of the way to the west. This takes you through Queensland where we stopped to pick up some more food supplies.
Queenstown was a mining community that thrived back in the 1900's (not so much now) and recently has had a couple of house fires. The overall result is a bit depressing, although it may have had something to do with the looming grey clouds that still hung overhead. There were no Coles of Woollies here, in fact all small towns (ie everything other than Hobart and Launceston) only have expensive IGA grocery stores which although common on the mainland of Australia are basically scarce in Hobart...weird!
The rest of the route
A waterfall along the way
The hillside changes near Queenstown
Although the drive was much slower than anticipated as the roads are soooo windy and narrow (not shown on map!) we didn't want to miss out on Strahan (pronounced Strawn) which is basically the only community along the west coast. So expecting a late night, we head to Strahan which we were told would be a good hours drive out of the way.
Oh how plans change! Strahan was sunny after all that rain, and we were exhausted, so instead we decided to stay the night. We found an awesome cabin at a holiday camp site with hot showers, tv, a fridge, microwave, hot pan and heater!! It was cheaper than staying at the backpackers site too. Finally able to dry-off and relax we checked out the touristy sites and enjoyed the atmosphere the quaint town had to offer. Prior to heading back for dinner, we drove 10 minutes to the longest beach in Tassie to watch the sun set along the western shores. Then back at our cabin we chowed down and slept quite soundly.
Watching the sun set in along the West Coast
And the beach goes on
With spirits high the next morning, we took in the view point at Strahan before packing back in the car just as the first big raindrops started to fall. On to Zeehan (very small now, but once a thriving mining town), then Rosebery for a bathroom break (ooh a waterfall...but thats basically all) and the even smaller Tullah (located at lake Rosebery and means the meeting of two waters in one of the aboriginal languages) for lunch.
Then off further north to Cradle Mountain we went on still quite winding little roads.
But I'm going to stop there as I think thats quite a bit about the West Coast for now and I'll include Cradle Mountain in the North Section. So to summarize, I would still do Lake St. Clair, but in the summer when it's drier and you can appreciate the scenery. Although the towns here aren't too interesting, if you make it to Strahan I think you'll definitely enjoy it as the town is quite cute and you have to see the west coast and the very very long beach nearby!
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